Leaving normality behind at Cairns, we journeyed up the Peninsula Developmental Road. This further descended in to a rugged corrugated trail which wound along the route of the telegraph line, between giant termite mounds as well as across numerous rivers around the little Aboriginal community of Bamaga on Cape York. “The beginning of HELL — return if you can”, said an encouraging handwritten sign even as we headed off into the actual wilderness!
River crossings of most manner and form interupted each leg of our journey — with axle-deep dirt, decaying wooden bridges (the actual odd log missing in some places to add to the task), deep bull dust or fast flowing water to keep you entertained. It was a traditional four wheel drive journey. The ultimate challenge, however, was the crossing in the Jardine River.
Even in the dry season, the Jardine River, just 35 km south of Bamaga, was a wide, one metre deep, fast-flowing river. In 1983, the luxury of a small car ferry had just become accessible to carry the vehicles containing the less foolish across this famous barrier for your princely sum of $10. Many husband and wife battles then erupted by the banks of the Jardine since cautious wives and thrill-seeking husbands debated the relative merits with the challenging river crossing and also the tame punt ride. As newlyweds, we too had our own dispute here, but in our case it had been the adventure-seeking wife which desired the river venture!
To drive across a river similar to this requires lots of preparation. A diesel motor like ours requires a lengthy air snorkel to lure air from well above any possible water level. Tyres must be deflated, waterproof covers packed throughout the engine and openings for example fuel tanks and doors need to be thoroughly waterproofed. We watched with concern as other vehicles attempted the crossing — and lots of failed, becoming stuck mid-river with the crocodile infested waterss swirling throughout the driver’s feet and camping gear floating in the rear of the vehicle!
Finally the thrill-seeking spouse won out. A group of fellow Landcruiser drivers came to our help and gave us a snorkel and covers which fitted our own vehicle. So with our vehicle set up just like a Christmas feast, we drove down to the swirling waters of the Mighty Jardine.
Across the river we all drove, pushing a moderate bow-wave before us. Dave said it felt so good he wanted to turn around and keep driving up the river! Then through a heart-stopping very deep hole near the end and up the steep bank we went, conquerors of the Jardine. I bet they don’t have this much fun on the organised Cape York Tours.
Our wet vehicle on the positive side seemed little the worse because of its adventure. However, it cost us more to switch the gearbox oils that had become waterlogged as opposed to little punt ride might have cost. So sanity prevailed on our return journey a month later and the Landcruiser needed a sedate ride over the Jardine on the punt!
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